While it isn't often that Philly eateries show up on the pages of major New York media outlets, it's usually to drop praise on the latest Michael Solomonov endeavor. Today, though, noted restaurant columnist and all-around grouch Steve Cuozzo spent a few paragraphs in the New York Post shredding Philly creperie Beau Monde, as it's run by the same ownership group that just took over NYC's famed Tavern on the Green. He had a real problem with the cold toilets.
"The brunch-around-the-clock joint has a fast-food feel, bathtub-warm red wine and toilets as cold as a freezer aisle. And while Parks Commissioner Adrian Benepe claims the owners have done an outstanding job in Philadelphia, our savvy friend in the City of Brotherly Love describes Beau Monde and its attached L'Etage nightclub as total nonentities on the hospitality scene."
Cuozzo goes on to talk about the accusations of crony-ism, and the fact that the new owners relationship with Bloomberg honcho Kevin Sheekey means a better chance at making peace with local unions during the construction period. Cuozzo then points out that Beau Monde doesn't draw a crowd in Philly on the weekend, and also suck at being a nightclub as "we didn't hear a sound or see a soul coming or going all night."
Tavern on the Green's newly appointed chef, Katy Sparks, got high marks from Cuozzo for her previous turns at Quilty's and Compass, but said that high volume isn't her forte. The new Tavern on the Green looks to have almost 500 seats. But, at least it isn't the current chef at Beau Monde, who produced a dinner that included some serious missteps.
"Salad greens looked and tasted out of a supermarket bag. The jumbo square crepes were fine, but fillings — Cajun shrimp; creamed spinach and grilled chicken; and shrimp with seafood sauce — had the formulaic, starch-bomb heft of thickened canned soup."
Looks like the new owners of Tavern on the Green are going to have quite the challenge impressing Cuozzo, and we're still about a year-and-a-half away from the opening date. Yikes.