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Nomad Roman Dethrones Original Nomad; Phyllis Brunches at Silk City

Well, OK, she went during the day.
Well, OK, she went during the day.
Photo: Silk City

This week saw City Paper's Adam Erace at Nomad Roman, where the soppressata pie earned a place on Erace's citywide top five. But hold up — you mostly want to know what Erace's top five pizzas are, right?

In no particular order, my current pantheon of Philadelphia pizza goes something like this: Santucci's upside-down squares; Celebre's cheesy pizzazz; New York Bakery's tomato pie, with its tall black corners and not-too-sweet gravy; Gennaro's tomato pie, with its molten center and poufy rim; Joe Beddia's Nos. 1 and 2; Cacia's bianca mattresses and Nomad's spicy soppressata.

So yes, the Nomad Roman spicy soppressata replaced the Nomad spicy soppressata. (The real question is, who will step up and create the update on the pizzazz to knock Celebre's off the list?) In sum, Erace loves the food, though encourages the owners to inject some more innovation into the menu, which is nearly identical to the other Nomads despite the new crust. The space was previously occupied by Spiga, which Erace tore apart last year, and he took this chance to get in one more jab:
At Nomad Roman, [owners] Grim and Bedon transformed a short-lived waste of space, Spiga, into a warm, cozy parlor, saving little more than the existing wood-burning oven.

Post-holiday, the review landscape was sparsely populated. Pubs like Philly Weekly forwent reviews, while a lot of bloggers are busy recapping their visits home or other travels. But you can always count on the South Philly Review. This week, Phyllis Stein-Novack reviews brunch at Silk City, for some reason. Here, she lauds what should probably be considered the bare minimum for pancake cookery:

It was obvious from the first bite that the chefs who make griddle cakes prepare the batter in house and know when to flip them.

But the omelets are well made, the sausage is Phyllis' favorite (Fiorella's), the grits are creamy, the rye has maybe never seen the inside of a plastic bag, and the scrapple is not "bland mush." She concludes by wondering if they use Hershey's cocoa powder to make the hot chocolate, though the question goes unanswered. Three-and-a-half tips of the toque (for those keeping track, this ranks higher than Little Nonna's or Cheu Noodle Bar, but just short of High Street on Market or Pizzeria Vetri).

· Meanwhile, Penn Appetit also mines the classics, with a quick hit checking out White Dog Cafe for lunch.

· All Review Coverage [-EPHI-]

Nomad Roman

1305 Locust St. Philadelphia PA 19107

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