Craig LaBan has been eating awfully well lately, following up last week's glittering review of Laurel with yet another three-beller, this time for Osteria Moorestown, Marc Vetri's adventure in South Jersey mall culture. The food porn is almost of secondary interest to the nuts and bolts stuff here (the NJ mall location means cheaper bottles, but it also means million-dollar liquor licenses), but LaBan makes the strong argument that "the real magic trick here - making the view of that vast mall parking lot and giant Sears sign disappear once you step inside and smell the wood grill - is the same that helped the first Osteria's devotees look past the bleak streetscape of North Broad: food that exudes genuine handcraft and soul." [Inquirer]
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