clock menu more-arrow no yes

Filed under:

Phyllis Stein-Novack Reviews the Idea of Restaurants

Photo: Delicias/Facebook

In lieu of a restaurant review in this week's South Philly Review, no-nonsense critic/beloved institution Phyllis Stein-Novack answered all of our prayers and filed a stream of consciousness on dining in general dubbed "Dining Dislikes." Here now, some things PSN is so over, revealed:

· Dimly lit restaurants
· Open windows in summer
· Droning servers
· Beets

And yet, in a move no one could have anticipated, Stein-Novack goes on record as being totally fine with noisy dining rooms. Go figure. There's a lot of stuff about cheese plates and which fishes have jumped the shark (direct to PSN: our money's on mackerel for the next fish we'll all find ourselves jaded on), and your heart is guaranteed to brim over with joy before it's all over.

The latest Philly Mag reviews are out, and luckily, there's good news for people who love good news as well as good news for people who love bad news. Let's start with the nice stuff:

· Petruce et al. (which has been getting reviewed notably early in the game) just nails it, with Popp declaring the place (and the lasagna) "an instant classic." Three stars.

Jason Cichonski-fueled Old City reboot The Gaslight, meanwhile, does not fare so well. There are some highlights, Popp writes, but the bar/restaurant is "bedeviled" by inconsistency.

You could go to the Gaslight for almost anything — girlie drinks or high-gravity beer, tomato-miso soup or chicken wings — but what you're likeliest to find is proof that geography is destiny. The Ela chef's sophomore effort feels like an Old City boîte for singles who've almost outgrown them, but who aren't quite ready to choose between Manayunk and Cougar Town.

One star — and yes, some jokes about the cocktails and their cringe-inducing names, to boot.

· Adam Erace seems satisfied with Delicias, the brick-and-mortar home of the popular arepa trucks, as a long-term tenant for the beloved room that once was Django. While not perfect, he deems it worth a visit or several — "just don't expect to pay food truck prices."

· Not really a review, but just in time for the holiday weekend, Philly Weekly chose to skip town and truck around Atlantic City. There are some quick hits of a lot of places, with special attention paid to Tony Boloney's, Little Saigon, and the Knife & Fork Inn.

· Dining Dislikes [SPR]
· Restaurant Review: Petruce et al. [PhillyMag]
· Restaurant Review: The Gaslight [PhillyMag]
· Delicias Finds a Brick-and-Mortar Home [CP]
· Beach Eats: Food Writers Tour Atlantic City [PW]
· All Weeks in Review [-EPHI-]

Petruce et al

1121 Walnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19107 267-225-8232 Visit Website

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater Philadelphia newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world