Local treasure and critic Phyllis Stein-Novack filed on Morgan's Pier this week, giving us all two gifts in one: The image of Stein-Novack and husband Edward amid the waterfront nightclub scene, and a heap of cringeworthy jabs. "This was the worst meal I have had all year," she flatly concludes, before doling out just one-half of a toque-tip to the seasonal hotspot.
How did it come to that? "Bland and greasy" fried cauliflower, the "worst potato salad [she] ever tasted," and "strange" elotes all populated a menu that "Groucho Marx would describe...as mish-mash." Edward's ubiquitous martini "looked strange in its small plastic cup."
An "inedible" tomato salad — "If they were heirloom tomatoes, I'm the Queen of Sheba" — certainly didn't help, but the real "travesty of the night" was the burger:
The patty, probably frozen, was about one-thirty-seventh of an inch thick. It was dark brown gray inside and overly salty. Topped with American cheese, red onions, a slice of tomato and some Bibb lettuce, the creation leads me to say I have had better burgers at McDonald's.
The fries, it should be noted, were "OK."
· Review: Morgan's Pier [SPR]
· All Week in Reviews Coverage [-EPHI-]