Yesterday evening, Foobooz informed us that Trey Popp, their long-time restaurant critic, has moved on. And in his place, Jason Sheehan, current food editor for Philadelphia magazine.
The funny thing is, Sheehan broke the news himself, so yes, the subject of the news is also its author. His announcement/soliloquy/casually-defensive-argument-about-the-merits-of-recogizable-critics was a lengthy one, so give it a careful read. He reiterates some great points from the likes of New York magazine and L.A. Times, and concludes his bit with a teaser to his first review that posted today.
Sheehan fell in love with almost everything at Bud & Marilyn's, with honorable mentions to their chop suey, cheese curds (again), and the deep, emotional connection he has with the gravy boat.
A plain white oval plate, piped mashed potatoes scattered with razor-cut chives, peas and carrots off to the side, and then royal trumpet gravy served in an honest-to-Jesus gravy boat because Turney is playing a deep game here, and even if I'd hated the meatloaf (which I didn't), I would've remembered it fondly just because my grandma used a gravy boat and your grandma used a gravy boat and my grandma is long gone now, so I can barely remember the last time I saw a gravy boat anywhere but at a garage sale.
Sheehan is an anti-pontificator — something sorely needed around Philly Mag's reviews department. Say what you will, his writing is approachable, never boring, and the man understands restaurants more intimately than most.
Others, though, aren't so happy:
Tweet from next year: I'm so old I remember when Philly Mag restaurant reviews weren't insufferable— Danya Henninger (@phillydesign) September 23, 2015