About two months ago, after some big-time Bon Appetit accolade, South Philly Barbacoa owners Cristina Martinez and Ben Miller scrapped their weekday torta menu, reserving it only for special functions and events. And that was a sad day since Martinez’s tortas were fantastic — different from the monstrous, over-stuffed creations found at a typical neighborhood taqueria. There was a delicacy to Martinez's pillowy homemade bread, stuffed simply with just two ingredients, tightly packed into a parchment paper pocket.
But happy days are on the horizon: Martinez’s son, Isaias Berriozabal, who you might’ve seen manning the taco station at South Philly Barbacoa over the past year since he immigrated, will open his own shop at 1149 South Ninth Street called El Compadre on October 24. On the menu? Tortas, five different ways: pork meatballs in green mole, chorizo and potatoes, chicken in mole poblano, turkey and ham, queso doble crema, and scrambled eggs, all stuffed into Martinez’s bread.
Store hours will be 6 a.m. to 3 p.m., weekdays only.