Philadelphia critic Jason Sheehan dropped in on Jason Evenchik's new tiki bar, Tiki, even though it's only been open for a month. But he acknowledged it right from the get-go: "It's way too early to be writing this review, and I don't care at all."
Despite a "confused" service staff and a kitchen putting out undercooked shrimp, and a bar serving blue cocktails out of plastic cups, Sheehan gifted Tiki with three whole stars ("Come from anywhere in the region"). Why? Context. He loves Tiki "because it's summer, and summer demands a place like Tiki." It is exactly what it was put on this earth to be:
A brainless, affectless, fun place full of hard liquor and snacks. We've got a few sweet weeks left of long nights and hot, bright afternoons, and it's your duty as a creature of limited days and uncertain fate to seize as many of them as you can—to drink rum drinks with little umbrellas in them, sing along to Sabotage, eat too many dumplings and enjoy yourself.
Joncarl Lachman (Noord, Neuf) and Lee Styer's (Fond) Pennsport addition, The Dutch, got its Inquirer review today from Craig LaBan, and the critic seemed to welcome the Dutch-on-Dutch luncheonette to "Breakfast Street" (a LaBan-ism for 4th Street) with open arms. His favorite dish? The eggs benedict, "which sets those eggs beneath a silky white flow of bechamel-creamed chipped beef over unique English muffins made with aromatic rye by Noord chef and bread master Jonathan Yacashin."
And while lunch is "solid" at The Dutch, "breakfast is where the Dutch's soul is." "Great" waffles and "irresistible" savory Dutch baby pancakes "studded with Port Richmond kielbasa and crunchy green scallions, and curling-up brown and roasty around the edges" were enough to win the Pennsport bruncherie two bells.