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Panorama’s Italian Eats Are at Their Peak, Writes Critic

And a new recommendation for your sushi list

Panorama

— Old City Italian wine venue Panorama might be two-point-five decades old, but Inquirer critic Craig LaBan dubs it better than ever — the credit seems to fall partly on new-ish chef Matthew Gentile (ex-Lacroix at The Rittenhouse) and the restaurant’s recent no-expense-spared makeover. The menu, while still Italian-influenced, leans a touch more American. Pastas are “outstanding”, most notably a braised lamb shoulder with tortellini; scallops are “perfectly seared” with a zingy zabaglione sauce, and the restaurant’s huge wine game has kept pace with the changes. It’s not all perfect though: risotto is a difficulty for many restaurants, the persimmon one here is dry, and a texturally undesirable cabonara gets a shrug, but the positives earn Panorama three bells. [Philadelphia Inquirer]

— Meanwhile, Philly Mag critic Jason Sheehan drops by Queen Village J-pub Royal Sushi and Izakaya, and finds that four months in, it has some of Philadelphia’s best Japanese eats. It verges on a rave, as Sheehan declares it will “make you feel better about your neighborhood, your city or yourself.” He has heavy praise for both the izakaya’s vibe, and willingness to be daring: even though a skate wing jerky offering might be terrible, it earns points for being out there. But there are plenty of positives on the food front: kurobuta sausages, char-grilled yakitori, and an excellent, wide-reaching sushi game with particular props for the tekka maki, and salmon skin rolls. Three stars. [Philly Mag]

Royal Izakaya

780 South 2nd Street, , PA 19147 (267) 909-9002 Visit Website

Panorama

14 North Front Street, , PA 19106 (215) 922-7800 Visit Website

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