Panorama’s Italian Eats Are at Their Peak, Writes Critic

— Old City Italian wine venue Panorama might be two-point-five decades old, but Inquirer critic Craig LaBan dubs it better than ever — the credit seems to fall partly on new-ish chef Matthew Gentile (ex-Lacroix at The Rittenhouse) and the restaurant’s recent no-expense-spared makeover. The menu, while still Italian-influenced, leans a touch more American. Pastas are “outstanding”, most notably a braised lamb shoulder with tortellini; scallops are “perfectly seared” with a zingy zabaglione sauce, and the restaurant’s huge wine game has kept pace with the changes. It’s not all perfect though: risotto is a difficulty for many restaurants, the persimmon one here is dry, and a texturally undesirable cabonara gets a shrug, but the positives earn Panorama three bells. [Philadelphia Inquirer]

Royal Sushi and Izakaya

— Meanwhile, Philly Mag critic Jason Sheehan drops by Queen Village J-pub Royal Sushi and Izakaya, and finds that four months in, it has some of Philadelphia’s best Japanese eats. It verges on a rave, as Sheehan declares it will “make you feel better about your neighborhood, your city or yourself.” He has heavy praise for both the izakaya’s vibe, and willingness to be daring: even though a skate wing jerky offering might be terrible, it earns points for being out there. But there are plenty of positives on the food front: kurobuta sausages, char-grilled yakitori, and an excellent, wide-reaching sushi game with particular props for the tekka maki, and salmon skin rolls. Three stars. [Philly Mag]

• Panorama: Better - and more relevant - than ever [Philadelphia Inquirer]
• Dinner At The Fish Riot: Royal Sushi And Izakaya Reviewed [Philly Mag]
• Just Like That, Royal Sushi & Izakaya Premieres in Queen Village [EPHL]