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Beer And Cider Spot Cinder Stumbles on Bar Food Writes Critic

Also: a mini-review of the mega new Chinatown food hall

Cinder

— Philly Mag critic Jason Sheehan checked out Teddy Sourias’ newest ode to beer from late last year, Cinder in Center City. The bar side of the operation with copious beer and cider on tap earns a nod of approval, but for food, it “stumbles”, writes Sheehan. Mussels in a cider broth do OK, but Sheehan has an unambiguous hint for them based on his margherita pizza: “I have a suggestion for them: Stop burning the shit out of the crust.” It’s by no means a disaster, although Sheehan takes particular umbrage with the addition of dill to already-dressed-up cheese fries. “It adds nothing except some gauzy scrim of class that cheese fries served beneath giant TVs neither require or deserve.” Sheehan does call Cinder good, but it’s just not at a level where it can compete with other upscale takes on bar food around town. Two stars.

— It’s not a formal review, but Philly Mag newcomer and former Eater Philly editor Alex Tewfik chowed down at the brand new Chinatown Square Food Hall to figure out what the best options are among the soon-to-be 14 vendors on site. Cambodian eatery Khmer Grill offers the best meal, with with wings, a beef stick and “snappy” Cambodian sausage. Kurry Korner’s pork katsu and Bao Bar’s shaking beef bun also get praise.

— As of Friday lunchtime there’s no full-length review from the Inquirer’s Craig LaBan but he gives a mini write-up to new-ish Venezuelan spot Tartareperia 18.64 in Fishtown. LaBan determines that the restaurant has its arepa basics mastered. Tartareperia knocks out the classics like ropa vieja with flair, but his top pick is a cool chicken salad with avocado dressing, Reina Pepiada.

Chinatown Square

1016-18 Race Street, , PA 19107 (267) 250-3621

Tartareperia 18.64

1204 N Front Street, Philadelphia, PA 19122 215-982-1150 Visit Website

Cinder

1500 Locust Street, , PA 19102 (267) 761-5582 Visit Website

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