West Philadelphia’s go-to for Thai and Laotian fare began as a humble pop-up serving curries and noodles to neighbors from under a blue tarp in chef Daovy Phanthavong’s yard. She moved operations to a permanent spot on Baltimore Avenue in 2002 and it’s been a Philly favorite ever since. There are plenty of familiar Thai options on the menu, but it would be a shame not to order some of the Laotian dishes too.

This Rittenhouse BYOB introduces a bit of French flair into its Thai offerings. Curry puffs and escargot on the appetizers menu set the stage for mains like massaman short ribs and Australian rack of lamb with basil demi-glace.

With hand-carved sculptures, original art set on richly hued walls, and sparkling chandeliers, this spacious Midtown Village spot, named for chef Chatayee Kapugthong, goes heavy on the glam. In the dining room, a well-executed menu of Thai classics arrive topped with fresh herbs and decorative veggie flowers, while a selection of street snacks keeps the bar packed from happy hour until late night. There’s also a separate vegan menu (don’t skip the autumn rolls).

This newcomer to Philadelphia’s Thai food scene came in hot at the beginning of the summer. Co-owners My-Le Vuong and chef Nok Suntaranon set out to offer beautifully presented southern Thai plates in all of their chile and fish sauce glory. The perennially packed dining room at their small Bella Vista BYOB is evidence that the city was ready for a Thai upgrade.

Named for a main road in Bangkok, the menu at Donrutai Jainon’s South Philadelphia Southeast Asian eatery bounces back and forth between Laotian and Thai cuisines with dishes like charcoal-fired Thai Cornish hen and grilled sticky rice with house-made Lao sausages.

This new Pennsport BYOB serving Laotian and Thai dishes is from Restaurant School alum Yenh Thivarath. At Maliwan, she marries staples like chicken satay and fish cakes with sweet chile sauce with ambitious plates like Lao-style steak with fresh herbs and sticky rice.

Sunny Phanthavong spent years working with her mom, Daovy, at Vientiane Cafe in West Philly before opening Vientiane Bistro, an outpost in Kensington where Lao beef jerky and three takes on papaya salad (Lao, Thai, and vegetarian) share menu space with spicy yum salads and eggplant sautéed with basil.

Chef-owner Moon Krapugthong is a powerful presence on Main Street in Manayunk. Her beloved Thai BYOB is filled with regulars sharing lemongrass-scented seafood hot pots and pineapple turmeric fried rice. Just a few doors down, Krapugthong’s fast-casual Binto offers noodle plates, curries, and milky sweet Thai tea and coffees to go.