Salt cod--heavily salted and then dried for preservation--is suddenly the unlikely star for a bevy of buzz-worthy restaurant dishes. Chefs love it for the intense, briny bite it brings to anything else on the plate. Also known as baccala, the stuff is often used in classic preparations, including French brandade--which, at its simplest, is re-hydrated salt cod whipped with olive oil and potatoes. Sometimes chefs take the familiar approach, serving it in ways consistent with traditional French, Italian, Spanish or Portuguese cooking. But more and more, the creative impulse intervenes and the ancient ingredient anchors an utterly modern dish. Here are some of our current favorites:

— Joy Manning